Clear acrylic display cases are among the ideal way to show your collectables, models, miniatures or similar items while protecting them from dust. However, one of the troubles with acrylic box is they usually can be found in standard sizes plus your item may well not fit well within a standard-sized case. It is possible to solve this problem if you make a custom case that was designed to show your item in the most effective way possible.
1.Look at the item you need to display. A display case must be at least 2 inches bigger than the product in height, width and length. For instance, for those who have a model car that is 5 inches long, 3 inches wide and three inches tall, your case ought to have two side panels which are 7 inches by 5 inches, two side panels that happen to be 5 inches by 5 inches as well as a top panel that may be 7 inches by 5 inches. Calculate the size of your case and take note of the shape of all the panels you will need. Make up for the width in the acrylic sheet with the addition of extra width to the top level panel that may be twice the thickness of the acrylic sheet.
2.Cut your acrylic sheet into panels, employing a table saw by using a blade for cutting acrylic, a circular saw, saber saw, jigsaw or even a handsaw. Move the sheet steadily through the blade, if you use a table saw. Acrylic sheets include a protective covering; leave this on as you cut the panels.
3.Sand the sides in the acrylic panels. Get started with a 120-grit sandpaper, then go on to 220-grit. Finish the sides by using a fine, 400-grit sandpaper. Use to a 600-grit sandpaper to get a very smooth finish. Use wet sanding and rinse the sandpaper often. Buff the edges using a buffing wheel attachment for a drill, if desired. Peel off the protective coating when you have finished.
4.Contain the sides of your case together to produce 90-degree angles, using angle clamps. Seal the outer seam in between the acrylic photo frame, using masking tape.
5.Apply solvent cement across the inner seams in the case. Use cement with a needle-nose applicator, when possible. Glue one-50 % of the case at the same time as the seams needs to be horizontal to prevent the glue from running out. Wait about 30 minutes for your solvent cement to dry before gluing another side.
6.Put the top panel on top of your case and seal the outer seams between this panel and the other case with masking tape. Turn the entire case over so the top panel is at the base. Apply solvent cement in the seams. Wait around for it to dry.
7.Cut a bit of wood so it is the identical size as the top of your case. This will be the foot of the situation. Ensure that the wood that may be between 1/2 inch and 1 inch thick.
8.Cut four pieces of trim. As an example, use quarter-round molding, if desired. Make sure that two pieces are the width of your box plus twice the width of your trim itself. Cut the other two pieces the duration of the case plus twice the width of the trim. Miter the sides of every piece to make sure they will fit together at 90-degree angles.
9.Glue the pieces of trim throughout the edges in the wood that you cut for the foot of the case, using wood glue. Let the glue to dry. Sand, then stain or paint the wood. Seal the base with 97dexfpky coat of polyurethane or similar sealer. Give it time to dry. Place the acrylic cosmetic display over the wooden base.
Should your acrylic sheets are 1/8 inch thick, you are able to score and snap the pieces apart as opposed to cut them a saw. However, sheets this thin is going to be too flimsy for anything but an incredibly small case.
For more security, you can also glue the seams externally from the case after the inner seams have dried. Use masking tape again on the inner seams to avoid the glue from running.
Usually do not apply too much solvent cement. The glue will be drawn in between the panels, so that you only need some.
It can be entirely possible that the blade to melt the plastic when you move the acrylic too slowly or too rapidly from the table saw.
Exercise caution when you use power tools. Wear goggles to guard the eyes when cutting, sanding or filing the materials or when using solvent cement.